Author: kvnrowe

16 October 2024

Time for one last download.

We are in that waiting time. First it’s the cab to the airport and then it will be the line through security, a flight to Johannesburg, more waiting for the flight to Sydney and then a 15 hour movie watching session. By Friday we will be back home thinking just yesterday we were in Africa!

Yesterday we travelled around Cape Tour at our own pace and discretion. We explored the city’s recent history and the sad clearance of neighbourhoods as part of the apartheid regime.

The Cape Town botanic gardens are simply stunning with proteas around every corner. The day ended with cocktails as the sunset over Camp Bay. There was a whale close to shore and a huge pod of dolphins feeding on a school of fish. Amazing.

A couple of final observations:

• I have never seen some many security fences either electrified or comprising razor wire. Some of these fences surround entire farms and some just a house and its yard. I was not sure whether these fences were to keep animals in or animals out or maybe to keep bad people out. I now think they are for all those reasons. In towns the fences keep the baboons out, for game parks they keep animals in and poachers out. In other settings it’s just to keep the bad guys out.

• South Africans seem to be caring of each other. When we stopped for road works our driver went to the back of the bus, collected bottles of water and gave them to the road crew. Truck drivers would move to the left to let faster traffic pass. Drivers would reverse out of a parking space and into traffic. Everyone would just stop and give them room. No agro or road rage. Often we were introduced to locals by our guide as ‘my sisters’ or ‘my brothers’.

Final comment, South Africa is still facing major challenges especially with regard to financial and economic equality across its communities. It might take another 30 years and maybe more to get there but I hope they keep on the path.

14 October 2024

Our final safari and we spotted more lions and this time in the act of procreation. After an earlier viewing of a lion pride sleeping off a meal after a kill I guess this completes the day in the life of a lion. We were told that we were very lucky to see this event. It’s rarely observed.

Our time at the game park has been so much better than we could have expected. We have met so many fellow travellers who visited other parks and felt lucky to see some giraffes and zebra.

We had a long drive back to Johannesburg to catch a two hour flight to Port Elizabeth and hence to southern parts of the country. Sadly the Johannesburg CBD has become a ruin of abandoned buildings and decaying infrastructure. We did not visit downtown J’burg.

We travelled through the ‘garden route’, a green expanse of farmland that contrasts with the dry savanna of the game park in the north. After visits to an ostrich farm, a limestone cave system and protea farm we made it to Cape Town, the most southern tip of the African continent. We have a few days in Cape Town before the long flight home.

Last night it was an African meal and entertainment that included the hundreds of guests playing African drums. I had images of the drums from those old black and white movies about deepest, darkest Africa.

We were conducted by an expect drummer who had amazing patience with so many drummers unable to follow directions. Huge noise and so much fun. It is one way to exercise the arthritis out of your wrists.

The meal last night included fish, prawns and chicken. The African dishes also included Namibian ostrich, impala and venison. Apparently Namibian ostrich is the better ostrich, who knew.

Before finishing this series of stories I thought I would regale you with some of my recent observations of South Africa and the world in general, prompted by this trip.

• Shopping malls the world over are so similar, same stores, same products. It’s just the faces and the voices that differ.
• Civilisation is not defined by science, the arts, literature or politics. It’s all about the coffee and South Africa is civilised.

• Every coffee shop the world over has tables that wobble.
• African people, adults and kids, love to dance and sing. They love colour and style. It’s not unusual to see the cashier quietly singing while waiting on customers.
• In all countries the tourist is fascinated by what the locals consider passé. In Australia the locals would consider a kangaroo just another kangaroo. The tourist would freeze, stop and take photos. In Africa we would exclaim Impala, stop, we must take photos. To the locals, nah, it’s just another Impala!
• The roads and highways here are the same as home. We just don’t have baboons and monkeys crossing the road.
• We might have BT50s, HiLux and Ford Rangers at home. You just wouldn’t see three guys lounging in the back without seatbelts or any restraints.
• Inequality in South Africa can be jarring. In Cape Town there are Ferraris parked in the streets not far from ramshackle huts made of plastic and sticks.

One last day before the long trip home. Then it will be time to unpack, edit photos and consider where to next….

7 October 2024

We have now done four trips into the bush. We are now focussed on finding the final couple of animals that make up the Big Five.

Last night was one of the highlights of the trip. During our dinner we were joined by our coach driver. He had an amazing story to tell. He was raised in SOWETO in the 1970’s during the times of the strikes and the bus boycotts. This was the history we had lived through but from afar. Isaac speaks 11 languages and is now learning Chinese so that he might communicate with Chinese tourists. He spoke to us in a wide range of African languages some with tongue clicks and pops. Try as we might we were unable to duplicate his skills.

It sounds a little cliched but it’s these brief interludes that make travel to places like South Africa so worthwhile.

Yesterday evening we saw Cape Buffalo and a female cheetah lying in the shade. It looks like we will hit the five.

This morning we were out again at 5:00am and we completed the big five challenge. We saw a small herd of elephants destroying trees to get to the roots and later 3 cheetahs who are brothers. They were calmly walking along the road beside the perimetre fence. Again our tracker out did himself. He exclaimed cheetah when they were a mere three dots at least a kilometre distant.

Tomorrow we have one more safari and then back to J’burg for a flight south.

5 October 2024

We are now in the midst of doing what we came for, namely seeing African animals in the wild. Three nights at a private game park that abuts Kruger National Park should give us a once in a lifetime opportunity to see the Big Five.

The drive north from Johannesburg covered wide open farming country dotted with coal mines and power stations. We visited landscapes of massive canyons and towering mountains. Our journey included freeways, toll roads and country roads with potholes very similar to home.

The old hatched roof huts of mud brick have gone and people are now building brick homes with steel roofs and driveways for their cars. This change has happened in just the last 20 years.

South Africa has a population twice the size of Australia and yet a land area smaller than Queensland. The things Australia lacks and South Africa enjoys however are some seriously big native animals and apex predators.

We have now done two, 3 hour safari tours of the game park and have seen so many animals. We have covered pretty much the cast from the Lion King.

On board our 4WD vehicle we have a tracker and a guide. What our tracker can spot in the bush is impressive. He will suddenly point in a direction into the thick bush and exclaim ‘rhino’ to which we all respond ‘where!’. After some intense peering we will see the slightest movement at a 100 meters whereupon a rhino will quietly amble towards us. For the leopard the only hint was the movement of the white tip of her tail 50 metres into the scrub. The tracker’s ability to spot these animals is a wonder in itself.

We have now seen and photographed rhino, hippo, leopard, giraffe, warthog, kudu, a pride of lions, baboons, gazelle, crocodile and wildebeest. We have three more safaris to go so maybe we will hit the Big Five.

Maybe this evening we will see cape buffalo and elephant.

3 October 2024

After a brief hiatus between trips we are on the road again or maybe that should be in the air. We have arrived in Johannesburg for a two week adventure that will include time in Kruger National Park and travelling down through South Africa finishing in Cape Town.

Today was Day 1 and an opportunity to get over the 15 hour flight from Sydney and any jet lag. We were up at 6:00am on Tuesday and arrived at our hotel in Johannesburg at 2:30am the next day.

It hasn’t been a particularly adventurous day although we did manage to get lost in the shopping mall bedside our hotel. After being surprised to find ourselves right back where we started we decided to pause and rethink our landmarks. We did manage to get back to our hotel without incident and after an excellent coffee.

Our discovery today was that shopping malls the world over are pretty much the same. The same stores, the same number of coffee shops and the same wide, tiled concourse. The big difference in Sandton Mall however is the number of diamond outlets, many with their own security guard at the entrance to the store. There were diamond sellers and fine jewellery shops everywhere. We were also surprised to see many security guards armed with assault weapons.

Needless to say the African faces are a pretty good indicator you are not in Australia anymore.

Tomorrow the adventure begins……

22 August 2024

We have been on the road for 53 days and have covered 10,000 kms or over 6,000 miles to Western Australia and back. Yes, too much country covered, too quickly. Even then we have only explored the very southern regions of WA. It’s always a challenge to slow down and take more time.

This trip has caused me to again reflect on the emptiness and vast landscapes of this country. Heading home however means less emptiness and more about coping with traffic lights, more people and not having to call up a truck on the UHF radio when they want to pass. There is also that list of things that have to be done after you have been away for nearly 2 months.

The last few days have been a good time to think about the next trip, where we will go and how long we will be on the road. It’s also been a time to reflect on what we have discovered and enjoyed about these past 7 weeks. One thing that is obvious is the distances are vast and we need to take more time.

Here are some of the high points for these past few weeks:

Four days to drive across the Nullarbor and the need to pay attention to the fuel in your tank.

Whales at the foot of the cliffs of the Great Australian Bight.

The surf coast around Margaret River and the coastline where the Indian Ocean meets the Southern Ocean.

The forest of WA in contrast to salt bush country of the Nullarbor.

The seafood and especially the oysters of south west South Australia.

The views.

So now it’s time to go home, wash the caravan and car, do the laundry and get back to the regular stuff…..

20 August 2024

If the answer is blowing in the wind as Bob Dylan tells us then South Australia holds the solutions to all questions. Does it ever not blow in South Australia? Fortunately the wind was blowing on our back and so our fuel consumption has been greatly improved. Bob Dylan never mentioned that in his song.

The car is fixed and we are back on the road. They fixed the car and gave it a wash. It was probably the most expensive car wash it has ever had. Not to worry we are back and with a clean car.

We visited the Whyalla Show and were impressed by a clever couple making 3D printed dragons, cuttlefish and hermit crabs. We also discovered South Australia is going to use excess renewable energy to generate hydrogen which will be used to generate power when the wind don’t blow and the sun don’t shine. They should have no concerns about the wind because that never stops. We did enjoy sausages cooked on a hydrogen powered barbecue. That would suggest change is happening.

We toured the steel works and saw all the new rail line stacked up. Steel making looks like a pretty grubby industry but it is good to see Australia is making something rather than just digging it out of the ground and sending it overseas. The iron ore used in the blast furnace is mined at a number of mines. The mines come with some catchy names such as, Iron Monarch, Iron Knob, Iron Duke, Iron Knight, Iron Duchess, Iron Chieftain and Iron Magnet.

For future reference we have also explored where the cuttlefish turn up every year. Maybe one year we will bring our wet suits and snorkel with the giant cuttlefish, or not.

Something to be aware of, if you live in South Australia now is the time to get your dog registered. There are signs everywhere telling even the disinterested that August is the month to register your dog.

After a long day of driving today I managed a 5km run along the Murray River, yes in the wind. My other run after a day of driving was on the Nullarbor Plain. So I guess I have run across the Nullarbor, not all of it just 6 kms but it was still on the Nullarbor.

Final observation. Last Log I mentioned ‘those campers’. Well we have reached a new standard of behaviour by ‘those campers’. A chap towing a caravan pulled off the road just in front of us. He proceeded to get back on the road and pass us. It seems while pulled over he had opened his grey water waste tank and as he drove past us he sprayed our car with his waste water. I guess our car did need a wash after all.

Tomorrow we continue eastward and maybe the upcoming Log 108 will be the last for this adventure.

17 August 2024

The last four days have been spent crossing the Nullarbor. About 500kms each day and with a tail wind the fuel consumption is pretty good. Not to mention a whole lot less buffeting when travelling east. Everyone says a West – East crossing is easier and our experience confirms that advice.

We camped above the Great Australian Bight and encountered ‘those’ campers. You know the ones that regardless of how deserted the place is and how much space there is they have to camp beside you. To make things worse our neighbours decided the remote ambience would benefit from the background noise of their generator. Ahhhhhhh!

I am probably repeating myself when I say, in this country you need a UHF radio. It’s so valuable to talk to the driver of the roadtrain that is coming up behind you or to hear from the escort vehicle as you pull off to the side of the road. Without these conversations you are somewhat blind in this country.

The theme of ‘big’ has come up a few times on this trip and yes there are more big ‘things’. We were in awe of the big galah. We also visited a windmill museum and yes there is one. That museum has the biggest windmill ever built in Australia. Of course being so big it had a name. That windmill is named Bruce. You would have to admit that’s a pretty appropriate name for a windmill.

Fuel prices are a subject of conversation out here. Being so remote the fuel is transported a long way and hence prices can get interesting. Of course when roadhouses are over 100 kms apart there is little competition. It’s not like there is another one around the next corner. That said a quick check online of fuel prices and a drive to the next roadhouse, about 80kms up the road, and I would have saved $30. It is worth checking those fuel apps.

We have arrived at Whyalla, the land of high quality hematite or iron ore. This is the place where the majority of Australia’s rail track is made. It’s also where cuttlefish gather every year to mate and die. Who knew!

After all this driving we have had our first glitch. We were close to the middle of nowhere, somewhere west of the back of beyond. We were happily driving along when without warning we lost power. The car kept going but it was just going slowly. We were in limp mode with about 120 kms to get to our destination for that day. It was not a good place to break down. Going downhill we had some speed but the slightest incline and we were real slow. Not a happy place when there are roadtrains travelling at 110 kph coming up behind you. There were no towns or friendly mechanics out here.

Without going into all the details we did get to our destination that night but with some stress. The next day the problem was diagnosed as a failed sensor which we hope will be replaced on Tuesday. And so we are enjoying the sites of Whyalla for an extra few days.

I mentioned earlier our worst cup of coffee ever. Yesterday we experienced our best breakfast accompanied by excellent coffee. If you are ever in Port Augusta try breakfast at Archers’ Table.

Next week we leave Whyalla and continue east across South Australia and into Victoria.

11 August 2024

We have reached Esperance and are now facing the long journey home. The curiosity and excitement of crossing the Nullarbor has been replaced with the acceptance that to get home we have to cross the Nullarbor (cue a deep sigh). I am guessing it would be like Burke and Wills or Lewis and Clarke, having reached their destination to have to then turn around and go straight back (cue a deep sigh).

The impressive sight as you drive the 480kms from Albany to Esperance is the vast golden fields of canola. This country was once the destination for gold prospectors who were chasing minerals underground. The gold that now fills the scene is flowering canola.

I had incorrectly assumed the country between Albany and Esperance would be dry savanna. I was so wrong. This is wheat and canola country with vast areas under cultivation. It turns out WA produces more than a third of the wheat grown in Australia. I think we have seen most of the fields that produce those grains.

Still there are mines in this area namely nickel and lithium. The nickel mines are in ‘care and maintenance’ while the lithium mine is just hanging in there. The Indonesians have swamped the market with cheap nickel and lithium is in worldwide oversupply.

Once you arrive at the coast you are overwhelmed by the shear number of beaches that are largely empty of humanity. The water is a brilliant blue and the beaches pure white. The beaches stretch beyond the horizon in both directions with hardly a human in sight.

In contrast to these magnificent ocean views, we have recently experienced travel destinations that has been slightly oversold by local tourism interests. We’ve all experienced places invariably described as the ‘world’s biggest …’, the ‘worlds last …..’, ‘the world’s longest…’ or even ‘the world’s rarest…’. This trip has not been without such experiences. Whilst the super pit was accurately described as super and wave rock is a pretty big rock there have been other destinations that didn’t quite live up to the hype.

Pink Lake at Esperance for instance is not pink nor has it been pink for many years. The blow holes at Albany would probably be best described as a crack in the rock where sea mist is emitted as the waves break. That said they remain part of the story and the adventure.

Tomorrow we pack up and head for the Nullarbor. Unlike the trip west, this time we have planned refuelling points, places to camp and daily distances. I am hoping for a tail wind and no rain.

5 August 2024

At the Albany ANZAC memorial we learned some 12,000 Walers were sent to the Middle East as part of our contribution to WW1. These were horses bred in New South Wales hence the name. Many were used in the last great calvary charge in modern warfare. That event was of course the charge of the Light Horse at Beersheba in 1917. Some eight hundred horses were in that charge. Beersheba is not that far from the modern day Gaza Strip. Of the 12,000 horses sent to WW1 only one returned to Australia.

The other group of a Whalers based in Albany and this time spelt with an ‘H’ had nothing to do with horses. These guys hunted whales and between 1952 and 1978 something like 16,000 whales were hunted and processed at the Albany whaling station. This industry only stopped in 1978.

It was a pretty grizzly industry that nearly wiped out the whale population around this coast. An old whaler who now volunteers as a guide described days when over 20 whales were taken by one boat, in one day.

Walking around the old whaling station you can only imagine the smell, the noise and general unpleasantness of the whole scene. The one group that seemed to thrive in this environment were the great white sharks that tore into the whale carcasses that were waiting to be processed.

The whalers targeted sperm whales after the hunting of humpback whales was banned. The big attraction was the oil produced from these whales. It has some very unique characteristics namely it doesn’t boil nor does it freeze. Whale oil was used for precision instruments, space travel and even as an additive in automatic transmission oil. I am so glad synthetic alternatives have been developed and there is no longer a commercial need to hunt these amazing animals.

Today we were able to watch whales on their annual migration, breaching just off the cliffs. What a different experience to yesterday.

The lookouts we were enjoying were established on 3.3 billion year old rocks. This was a time when our road trip could have included North America. The age of these rocks did give us confidence that the platform built out over the cliffs and bolted to these rocks was secure.

My personal insight for today was my amazement or maybe amusement of those who come to see this amazing coastline and yet spend their entire visit photographing themselves. Is this just evidence of modern vanity, self obsession or just plain old narcissism? I don’t get it and the last person I want to photograph is me!

Tomorrow our easterly journey continues …..