17 September 2017
Dubrovnik Walls
Old Dubrovnik is a beautifully maintained medieval walled town and harbour. It’s walls some 6 metres or 20 feet thick. It was established back in the 13th century and only gave up its independance to Napoleon when under siege by Russian and Montenegrin fleets. However this city’s history did not finish back in 1808, in 1991 the city was again under siege for 8 months by Serbian and Montenagrin forces. The city was heavily shelled in this time.
All that damage from 1991 has been repaired and is no longer visible. The old city is now a place to eat, drink, shop and be in awe.
Bus Trip
It was the classic scene of traveller’s down to their last few coins. We had bought a coffee and strudel using the last of our Croation Kuna. We then realised we needed to buy tickets to get us home or face a tough uphill walk of several kilometres. We went through our pockets and counted our change; a very sad scene.
Yes, we thought we just had enough. So with renewed confidence we approached a kiosk that sold bus tickets. Alas they were twice the amount we had in Kuna change. The lady told us we could use our cards and that cash wasn’t required; eureka we were saved. We bought our tickets and waited for the bus.
It turned out the bus driver had no interest in our tickets and that bus travel was free up to 4.00pm and it was now 3.45pm. So much for those sad traveller’s counting the last of their coins.
Cruise Liners
Before we left on this odyssey there was a great deal of commentary about the ill feeling locals were expressing about the number of tourists flooding the streets of Dubronvik. This was of some concern to us as we contemplated our visit.
The truth of the situation is that on a couple of days in the peak season between 5-7 cruise liners arrived on the one day disgorging between 15,000 and 21,000 people on to the streets of the old town. In contrast on the three days we have been here there have been no cruise liners and no sense of not being welcomed by the locals. In future cruise liners will be limited to a maximum of two on any day.
Tourism is one of the biggest industries in Croatia. Unemployment drops from 18% to 15% in the prime summer season. This is a country moving away from the days of communism and civil war.
Montenegro
A boat ride through the Bay of Kotor is an amazing way to see the Montenegrian coast. The mountains are stark, white limestone rising straight up from the Dalmatian coast.
Kotor is another medieval walked town at the end of the bay. Narrow streets and gated entries define this old city.
In the harbour are samples of the luxury yachts and motor launches you see at boat shows and in those magazines at the doctor’s waiting rooms.
Luggage and Stairs
When considering what to pack forget what your international flight allows and disregard your allowance on domestic flights. Think about how much weight you want to lug up and down stairs.
Our apartment is not on a street, it’s a stair case of over 200 stone steps. Lugging suitcases in 26c or about 80f is not fun.
The Adriatic
This sea was clearly designed for the rich and famous to show off their luxury cruisers and yachts. The water is warm and crystal clear with a background setting of old cities and buildings construct from white limestone.
Old Pharmacies
In Zagreb and Dubrovnik there are two pharmacies that have been in continuous business since the 13th century. I am guessing these would be the places to go for cures to the bubonic plague and the Black Death. Of course these old cures may well have been based on the liberal use of mercury, lead or arsenic.
A Traveller's Tale 